Custom Tailored Jackets

Custom Tailored Jackets

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Custom Tailored Jackets will help you discover the fashion industry method of constructing a woman's tailored jacket, commonly called "bagging the lining." It offers advice and techniques to help you make various styles. This book is an essential guide for the designer, patternmaker, costumer, and cottage industry designer wishing to make a professional looking tailored jacket.

A properly fitted, well-constructed tailored jacket should be seen as an advanced project, both in design and construction. This book allows you to feel confident in your tailoring and construction skills.

These types of tailored jackets are covered in this book:
  • Basic (Torso) Tailored Jacket (use CS1201)
  • Shoulder Princess Tailored Jacket (use CS1301)
  • Armhole Princess Tailored Jacket (use CS1302)
  • Dartless Tailored Jacket

Method Summary:
  • Select a blouse block
  • Fit the blouse block
  • Develop the sleeve
  • Develop the jacket block
  • Add style lines, collars, and pockets
  • Prepare the interfacing
  • Prepare the lining
  • Sew the finished garment
Before proceeding you should have a design to reference. In other words, have a clear picture of what you want to create. This can be a hand-drawn illustration or photograph. Just keep in mind that it is beyond the scope of this book to teach the intricacies of every type of styleline, collar, or pocket.

This book teaches how to make a custom-fit jacket using a popular set of styles based on the blocks listed above. Stylelines, collars and pockets are covered in the back. Please double-check your reference design with the table of contents to ensure that the styles in your design are also covered in this book.
Complete coverage of the most common design styles are included in Patternmaking Made Easy.

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  • 5
    Making a Jacket from a Bodice Sloper

    Posted by Mary Jackson on 17th Jun 2020

    Having made Connie Crawford's shoulder princess seam blouse in Janet's sew along, I wanted to make a jacket. The description stated that Connie used her slopers to transform them into a jacket. The book includes excellent pictures and detailed details of where to add or subtract seam allowances for each of the sloper/blocks. Connie describes how to make a two-piece sleeve from the one piece sleeve, interfacing, and preparing the lining. Connie includes sections on how to sew the jackets, provides guidance on how to alter style lines, add different collars, and concludes with two different pocket options. I have not found such detailed and clear explanations in any other sewing title and it has become an invaluable addition to my sewing library.